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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.